There was rawon, a brooding and bitter beef soup native to East Java, stained almost black with fermented kluwak seeds. And from Jakarta, nasi uduk, its diametric opposite, a painter’s palette of scrambled egg, spicy caramelized anchovies, shrimp tinged bright orange with peppers and glazed chicken arranged around a mound of rice smelling sweetly of coconut. Tahu gejrot, a traditional street food of West Java, found puffs of fried tofu bathing in soy sauce and smarting with smashed chiles.